What's on

Nights, and notes

Three evenings a season, and the arguments about cooking that go with them.

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Three milkshakes topped with whipped cream

Three nights

This season

A cook flipping burger patties on the grill

12

June

Double-up Thursdays

Every burger on the board goes double patty for the price of one, from six until the beef runs out.

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Cooks working the line in a busy restaurant kitchen

27

July

Twelve seats at the pass

Twelve stools, one sitting, and the team builds the six plates the street will not let us take off the board.

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Three milkshakes topped with whipped cream

09

August

Shake season opens

Six weeks of whatever the fruit market has that morning, spun thick and served in the cold glass.

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Notes

From the kitchen

Burger patties cooking over the coals

The kitchen

Why we still cook over charcoal

Gas is faster, cleaner and cheaper, and every serious burger person will tell you it makes no difference. It makes a difference. Here is what actually happens to a patty over coals, and why we accept the extra hour at the end of every night.

A box of loaded fries under a drizzle of sauce

The board

Shito, and what it is doing on a burger

It is not a novelty and it is not there to be Ghanaian at people. It is a fermented, salty, deeply savoury thing that does to beef roughly what anchovy does to a caesar — and once you have had it you will find plain mayonnaise thin.

A cook working a burger over the grill

The board

What happens on a Thursday

Adjoa is at the butcher before six and the board changes by lunchtime because of what she finds. Ten years of that, and it is still the only planning this kitchen does.

The dining room lit by neon in the evening

Thursdays

The board moves weekly

One or two things change every Thursday depending on what the butcher and the market had. Follow along and you will know before you arrive.

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The Stack mark — a flame between a fork and a spatula

Stack