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The journal

Notes from the churn room

Nobody here is a writer. These are the things we had to learn the hard way, written down while they were still fresh, usually by whoever learned them.

A stand mixer whisk lifted out of a bowl of whipped cream while syrup is poured into it

Newest · 2 April · Kitchen

Why we churn at five in the morning

The freezer needs six hours to set a batch hard and the Osu counter opens at eleven. Take one from the other and the machine starts before the sun does. Not romance. Arithmetic.

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More from the journal

The three before that

Short pieces about milk, mangoes and getting a frozen thing across Accra in one piece.

A pink watermelon sorbet in a waffle cone laid on white marble between palm fronds and cut watermelon wedges

26 March · Kitchen

A sorbet beats cream in this heat

Fat gives up before water does, which is why the sobolo gets to Adenta in one piece and the tigernut travels in a cool box.

A banana split in a long white dish under whipped cream, rainbow sprinkles and three glacé cherries, jars of toppings behind it

9 March · Parties

How to feed thirty children ice cream

A birthday, a scoop cart and thirty small people with strong opinions. What we have learned about how much is enough.

Wooden market crates piled with yellow and purple plums and red nectarines at a fruit stall

21 February · Sourcing

Nine months looking for one mango

We tasted everything between Somanya and Techiman before a single crate of it was allowed anywhere near a tub.

The archive

Everything else we have written

10 pieces so far, and most of them exist because something went wrong first. Newest at the top, and not one of them is longer than a page.

Questions we get asked

Kitchen · 3

Parties · 2

Sourcing · 2

Deliveries · 1

The shops · 1

People · 1

14 February

The rider, the gate and the missing phone

Half of every late delivery is somebody not hearing the horn. Here is what we changed after a very long Friday in Dansoman.

Deliveries

31 January

What we got wrong in East Legon

We built the counter for people who would sit down. Almost nobody sits down. The whole thing came out and went back in facing the street.

The shops

12 January

Why there are only two farms

The third one was cheaper and the milk was never the same twice. Cheap milk turns out to be the most expensive thing in a creamery.

Sourcing

6 December

There is salt in the sobolo

A quarter teaspoon a batch. It does not make it salty, it makes the hibiscus louder, and we argued about it for a month.

Kitchen

18 November

Everybody here started on the counter

Both of us included. You cannot make ice cream for a city you have never had to hand it to across a busy Saturday.

People

2 November

Thirty litres, one wedding, no freezer

A tent in Aburi, a generator that gave up at four, and the three things that now go in the van before anything else.

Parties

Every scoop we posted

Four hands holding up cones of mint, peach, pink and pale blue ice cream against a bright yellow wall
Two people standing side by side holding waffle cones, one pink and one pistachio, in paper wrappers
A close crop of rainbow sprinkles filling the whole frame
Three empty waffle cones stacked into one pink paper wrapper on a near-white ground, pastel sweets scattered around them
A dropped strawberry cone melting on a stone kerb with grass out of focus behind it
Four thick milkshakes in glass jars with striped straws, topped with chocolate, biscuit and a strawberry
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Enough reading

The journal is the long way round. The short way is a tub of sobolo in the freezer by this evening. Ring 030 279 1140 if you would rather somebody chose for you.

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